$59.99
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Region: Beechworth
Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon
First Glance: Mineral, Elegant, Subtle Power, Age-worthy
Acclaim: 96pts
The Wine:
Always a favourite of ours at Best Cellars, year after year this wine exhibits elegance, grace and detail to the nth degree. For fans of Pouilly Fume - mineral inflicted wines of power, structure and length. Just so good!
The Review:
Mike Bennie, The Wine Front - 96pts
"For me, probably one of my most anticipated Australian wines of the year. I buy it with impunity, and drink it with gusto. I rarely cellar because I forget to, and wish I did. A little more subtle this year, seek out the fine detail and elegance. Despite this, the underpinning of biodynamic farming, in the backyard, alongside gentle handling in winery, barrel conditioning, lees work, texture as a primacy, all work for me so well. I tasted this over quite a while, a bit like Adrian Mole waiting for Giro, so hence the review.
Opened 4.17pm: First approach to the wine was curious. A perfume with a stronghold of stone fruit, ginger, sea spray, nougat, a touch of grassiness but noted was a distinct, grassy/sage leaf lift of herbal character that felt a touch distracting. Not so in the palate with those herbs, but stone fruit, fino sherry, a touch of white balsamic lift and canola oil piquancy and greasiness. A pause. Something felt a touch amiss, not untoward, but wanted to see what happened next. The caveat is, patience with this 2023.
Next, 4.47pm: The slip of canola and white balsamic have left, these were in the cross hairs to find again, but a departure, and we remain with stone fruits, fino sherry elements and nougat with developing sour dough characters, a touch of green almond and a softening of the finish that feels washy and briny and pure.
Tasted again, 5.27pm: Power builds. More authority here. All the perfume and palate of prior but we’re finding a bit more structure, chalky fringes and a stronger, crushed rock mineral vein. Saline characters continue, refreshing and fine.
6.32pm: The tour de force now. It’s in the groove, all elements finding harmony and the complex, textural-medium white wine is on show. The savouriness and briny minerality sits under the more inherent ‘SBS characters’ with subtle inflection of nuttiness, sour dough, brine and crushed rock minerality with an invigorating snap of preserved lime acidity to finish. It’s a more gentle expression than some years, and one that feels like it needs to be coaxed out of its shell, but my oh my, with patience, this shows its mettle. Complex, energetic, so beautiful, classy and delicious."
