Michel
Lafarge
“Michel Lafarge and his son Frederic run
one of the most admired domains in Burgundy-admired for its
un-Burgundian trait of consistent quality year after year
and for every AOC. Small crops provide great depth; late
harvesting when the weather permits gives ripe vivid
succulent fruit. The estate began conversion to Biodynamics
in 1996. Its finest wines include the Premier Cru Monopole
Clos du Chateau de Duc as well as parcels in Caillerets and
Clos des Chenes.” Andrew Jefford, The New France
"I believe 2005 is the best vintage since
1990 and in terms of overall style and quality, it reminds
me a great deal of 1961." (Michel Lafarge). The comparison
to 1961 is indeed a huge compliment because while that
vintage never got the respect accorded to the 1961 Bordeaux,
it should have as the wines have lasted
magnificently….
Fans of the domaine will note the
presence of two new wines, which I reported last year. To
remind readers, the Lafarges purchased another parcel of
Volnay "Mitans" and Beaune "Aigrots", the latter of which is
planted to both chardonnay and pinot noir. The addition of
the Mitans will not only allow for an individual bottling of
it but a Chanlins as well because heretofore, both the
Mitans and Chanlins went into the blended Volnay "1er",
which will no longer be made after 2005. And as usual, the
Lafarge '05s are among the very best of the vintage and
several are highly recommended and scores and comments speak
forcefully as to just how spectacular the Lafarge '05s are.
They are "don't miss" good!” Burghound
Whites
2006 Domaine Lafarge
Bourgogne - Aligoté Cuvée Raisin Dorée -
$39.99
As the name would suggest, here the fruit
is slightly riper though still very fresh and spicy while
dissolving into delicious, round and relatively rich flavors
that possess just a bit more depth on the equally crisp and
racy finish. Burghound - 83-86 Points
2005 Domaine Lafarge Meursault -
$99.99
The late malo shows up here as the nose
is very primary, indeed even with vestiges of fermentation
aromas though the forward middle weight flavors possess good
mid-palate fat and fine richness on the fruity and delicious
finish that isn't overly complex but attractive in its
fashion. Burghound – 86-89
points
2005 Domaine Lafarge Beaune 1er
Cru 'Les Aigrots' Blanc - $145.00
Note: the
first vintage for this wine
A deft touch of pain grillé
frames airy green fruit and dried floral aromas that
introduce detailed and sweet medium-bodied flavors that
culminate in an agreeably fresh and dry finish where an
attractive mineral streak can also be found. In short, this
is quite pretty if not profound. Burghound – 88-90
points
Reds
2005 Domaine Lafarge Bourgogne
Passetoutgrain L'Exception - $42.99
Note: from
80 year old vines
There is a bit more of everything here
including aromatic refinement with equally ripe red berry
fruit and earth notes that continue onto the rich, full and
velvety flavors that are a bit rustic on the backend but
it's exceptionally rare, pun intended, to find a PTG at
anywhere near this level of quality. Highly recommended.
Burghound – 85-87 points
2005
Domaine Lafarge Bourgogne Pinot Noir - $55.00
A
notch up in elegance with pretty red pinot fruit and soft
earth and spice notes that blend into distinctly earthy,
rich and full flavors that are serious and culminate in a
velvety and mouth coating finish. Super quality for its
level plus it will repay moderate cellaring. Burghound –
86-89 points
2005 Domaine Lafarge Volnay
- $99.99
This is quite ripe yet the red and dark
berry fruit aromas are airy and pure with an abundant
earthiness present on the rich, serious and rather brooding
middle weight flavors supported by excellent dry extract and
ripe structural elements on the solidly long finish. Very
good quality here for a villages level wine. Burghound –
88-90 points
2005 Domaine Lafarge Volnay
Vendanges Sélectionnées - $117.00
Here the nose
is at once slightly ripe yet more elegant and refined as
well with red pinot and black cherry aromas nuanced by hints
of earth and animale that can also be found on the rich,
velvety and equally serious medium plus weight flavors that
coat the mouth with ripe tannins and admirable levels of dry
extract. Recommended though note that this will need at
least 6 to 8 years to really be at its best. – Comments –
Outstanding! Burghound – 89-91
points
2005 Domaine Lafarge Beaune 1er
Cru 'Les Aigrots' Rouge - $145.00
Note: from 40+
year old vines
A completely different aromatic profile
presents itself with a much more fruit-driven nose that runs
more toward cool red pinot and raspberry and while there is
a touch of earth, it's subtle. The medium weight flavors are
very Beaune in character with a rich, sweet and generous
mouth feel and a detailed and mineral suffused finish. This
is on the linear side at present but packed with upside
potential and vibrancy. (Burghound – 89-92 points)
2005 Domaine Lafarge 1er Cru Beaune
"Les Aigrots" - $145.00
Note: from 40+ year old
vines
A completely different aromatic profile presents
itself with a much more fruit-driven yet also more elegant
nose that runs more toward cool red pinot and raspberry and
while there is a touch of earth, it's subtle. The medium
weight flavors are very Beaune in character with a rich,
sweet and generous mouth feel and a detailed and mineral
suffused finish. This delicate offering is on the linear
side at present but packed with upside potential and
vibrancy that should reward 6 to 8 years of cellar time.
Burghound – 90 Points
2005 Domaine Lafarge 1er Cru Beaune
"Les Grèves" - $155
Note: from 80+ year old
vines
This is riper if less elegant with serious and
reserved aromas of red berry fruit, warm earth, subtle spice
notes and hints of smoke that lead to rich, full, punchy and
relatively powerful flavors that possess absolutely superb
depth of material on the wonderfully long finish. This is
built to age and will require at least a decade to arrive at
its majority. This is an extremely impressive and powerful
Beaune. - Comments: Outstanding! Burghound – 92
Points
2005 Domaine Lafarge 1er Cru
Pommard "Pézerolles" - $205.00
Note: the
Domaine's smallest holding at only .14 ha with vines that
are now 50+ years of age
A profoundly elegant and classy
red berry fruit nose where the transparency is such that the
underlying minerality of a classic Pàzerolles is well and
truly on display. The dusty and pure flavors are also built
on a firm base of minerality, culminating in a sleekly
muscled and powerful finish that seems to go on and on
without end. While this cannot boast the same degree of
sheer extract as the Clos des Chênes, this may be even
longer lived, which is truly saying something in this
company. A wine for the patient as this is built for a life
span measured in decades, not years. Don't miss!
Outstanding! Burghound – 92-95 Points
2005 Domaine Lafarge 1er Cru Volnay
"Clos du Château des Ducs" - $205.00
Note: from
50 year old vines; a monopole of the domaine
A gentle
touch of wood frames very ripe red berry liqueur aromas yet
despite the ripeness, the dominating minerality of this
appellation is in full display and it continues onto the
rich, refined, pure and beautifully detailed flavors
underpinned by a velvety mouth feel, firm tannins and an
explosive finish. While I have always admired this classy
wine for its understatement and purity, there is a bit more
forcefulness to the overall impression and this is
potentially the best Ducs in years. - Comments: Outstanding!
Burghound – 93 Points
2005 Domaine Lafarge 1er Cru Volnay
"Clos des Chênes" - $205.00
Note: from 45+ year
old vines that sit just above Champans
A beautifully
elegant and highly complex nose of extract of dark berry
fruit that is both elegant and complex serves as a dramatic
introduction to the big-bodied, indeed even robust flavors
that are firm, dense and incredibly concentrated, all
wrapped in a palate drenching finish that just oozes dry
extract and gives a velvety texture to the unbelievably long
finale. This is a wonderfully gifted wine that has
everything it needs to age gracefully for multiple decades
and it will need 12 to 15 years in a cool cellar to really
hit its stride. This too is one of those 'wow' wines. -
Comments: Outstanding! Burghound 94 Points
2005 Domaine Lafarge 1er Cru Volnay
"Caillerets" - $205.00
Note: from a parcel
measuring 7ouvrées, or around .3 ha of 40 year old
vines
This is more aromatically complex still with
ethereal notes of red and black fruit, floral notes,
particularly violets and subtle spice and earth hints
trimmed in a discreet bit of wood where all of this aromatic
firepower precedes the rich, generous and impressively
refined flavors that possess superb depth of extract that
buffers the firm tannins on the structured, powerful and
hugely long, indeed explosive finish. A 'wow' wine. -
Comments: Outstanding! Burghound – 94 Points
