The harvest of 2007 was a two-part affair
at this family domain, with Christian and son Fabien Moreau
bringing in their Vaillons on September 9 due to rot
pressures, but then waiting until September 14 to attack the
grand crus, which ultimately came in with potential sugar
levels between 12.5% and 13% and were not chaptalized. The
first blend was made in March, about two months later than
usual, after which the wines were returned to a combination
of tank and barrel. According to Christian Moreau, the new
vintage possesses very good acidity (higher than the 2004s)
and a lot of minerality. With the exception of the Vaudesir,
which was replanted in 1998, all the vineyard holdings here
have an average vine age of at least 40 years. Everything
here is picked by hand. Interestingly, Fabien described his
2006s as fresher than the 2005s.
STEPHEN TANZER,
International Wine Cellar
Moreau Chablis 2007 AC
$50 $48
From vines averaging 40 years
old. Aged 100% in stainless steel tanks.
Bright, pale
yellow. Aromas of yellow fruits, vanilla, truffle and
spearmint, plus a whiff of orange zest. Juicy, firm and dry,
with strong acids framing the citrus, mineral and musky
spice flavours. This pure, brisk village wine reminded me in
style of a 2004. Classic finishing flavours of lemon and
minerals. STEPHEN TANZER
Moreau Chablis Vaillons
2007 1er $75 $63
From vines aged from 30 to 65
years old aged 2/3rd’s in tank and 1/3rd in barrique (none
new).
Bright yellow. Very primary aromas of citrus peel
and white pepper; still a hint of fermentation aromas. Then
richer and riper in the mouth than the village wine,
combining a faint exotic note of green tropical fruits with
an edge of lemony acidity. Quite firmly structured but with
good buffering material for its 4.7 grams per litre of
acidity. STEPHEN TANZER
Moreau Chablis Vaillons
‘Guy Moreau’ 2007 $85 $70
From a single parcel of vines
planted in 1934. 10% vinified in tank and 30% in oak, less
than 2% new.
Bright yellow. Musky aromas of vineyard
peach, ginger and white pepper. Very rich, dry and primary,
with the peppery quality accentuated by firm-edged acidity.
A pronounced citrus zest flavour communicates a strong
impression of energy. Tighter, juicier and longer than the
regular Vaillons, finishing with a stony quality that leaves
the salivary glands quivering. STEPHEN
TANZER
